Friday, 23 October 2015

Friday 23rd October. Phong Nga Caves

Another long day in the bus was looming so we departed the bustle of Vinh at 7.30am and headed for our rendezvous with the Phong Nga Caves near Dong Hoi in Central Vietnam. There has been a noticeable upgrade in highway 1 since my first visit in 2010 but there would need to be as there has been a large increase in the number of trucks and cars using this major link.

We reached the river bank at Phong Nga around 11.30 and were herded into 2 narrow timber boats that held 10 and 9 respectively. They were powered by a noisy Diesel engine and were steered by a long oar. Rustic might be a good word to describe the plank work of the hull and the seats were individual folding chairs draped in a life jacket for our safety. We made good speed to the cave entrance (about half an hour) and then the engine was shut down and our 2 attendants rowed/steered us into the low roofed entrance.

Yesterday I announced Dry Halong Bay as one of the highlights of the trip and since that proved to be an exaggeration I was hesitant to do the same for a place I hadn't visited before. Gus' son Tim had recommended this visit and being a fellow Geographer I was confident he'd found a gem. It is difficult to put into words this marvel of karst topographyy because every turn in the subterranean river revealed a kaleidoscope of pastel colours that were brought to life by strategically placed white led lamps. The magnitude of some of the caverns was also a highlight with one huge cavity and its gable shaped roof line giving it a cathedral like quality. I have no doubt that this experience of natural grandeur was an emotional journey for many in the group. We navigated about 1km of this cave system but were advised that another 2 could be explored in a kayak and then exit on the other side.

We lunched in Dong Hoi around 2pm and then travelled on to the Royal city of Hue, arriving around 7pm for dinner at the Mandarin Cafe. Mr Cu greeted us warmly as he did in 2010 and there was a feeling of Deja's vu as we had bought photographs for framing from him back then. This Muong Thanh hotel is also a quality establishment with spacious rooms and a fresh modern appearance. All in all a day to remember.
Approaching the cave entrance


We disembarked in the cave to view some of the dry bed caverns. None of the above photos do justice to the grandeur of this cave system.

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